
V 



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fc££Y<? .4 COMPLETE SYSTEM FOR CUTTING GEXTLK 
I; EAR, COATS OF ALL FASHIONS, VESTS AND 
PAjVTALOOA'S. 



A COMPLETE GUIDE FOR CUTTING 






LAD!ES DRESSING, 



WITH PLAIN AND PRACTICAL RULES FOR VARYING AND CHANGING THE 
IE, ACCORDING TO THE CHANGE OF FASHION, 

With Plain, Eas?/ and Practical Method for Teaching thz same by familiar 

Questions and Answers, 



WITH EXPLANATION ON MEASURE, PRK3SIN0 AND FINISHING KING. 



7 

BY A. J. HUNTER. 



•Hg - s-* 



JOHN NOBLE, PRINTER, GLASGOW, KY. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA: 

District of Kentucky. 



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J5e 2/ Remembered ', that on this the second day of May, Anno 
Domini 1S53, A. J. Hunter, of said District, deposited in this office 
the tide of k book, the title of which is in the words and figures 
following, to wit: 



"The Garment Cutter and Ladies Guide : being a complete system for cutting 
Gentlemen'.-; wear; Co-its of all fashiens, Vests and Pantaloons. Also a com- 
plete Guide for cutting Ladies Dressing, with plain and practical rales for vary- 
ing and changiag the same, according to the change of Fashion: with plain, easy 
and practical method for teaching the same, by familiar Questions and Answers: 
with explanation on Measure, Pressing and Finishing the same. By A. J. 
Hunter. The right whereof he claims as Author and Proprietor.*' 

In conformity with an Act of Congress, entitled "An act to amend the several 
acts resoecting copy-rights." 

JJSO. A. MONROE, 
Clerk of Kentucky District Court. 



'•• 






' 






c 

ner 
c 



This work, as its title page imports, is designed to furnish every family with 
an easy method of acquiring a practical knowlc ; for cuttin - 

lothin g, ... a hitherto been known only to . tailors and milli- 

The dominion of fashion has become so absolute, in every class oi i 
an society, thai wo have, in a great degree, depart* "P 11 '^ and 

the economy which characterized our ancestors. The ever varying changes in 
dress, and the consequent enormous expenditures of money, are at this t ime a 
fruitful source of many of the worst evils that afflict our country. The author ot 
this work has ion- known that a great reduction could be made in the 

reneral and easy guide in the cut- 
ting and fashioning of ladies' and ge, J. He has endeavored to 
meet what he considered a very great and growing i 

ty upon this subject. It has been Ids purpose to afford every lady the means ol 
lessei J burdens of her hu 

inanolaltoge Id, 'warranto- the co 

the fraifn ' vare { - ; ■" 

a hui ' ;thedis B e nil 

important department eels however that I :, im- 

perfect though it maj . . : doubtless is in some respects, is nevertheless be- 
yond the reach of those wl it. He courts an invest.gatio 
its pages, and bases his claim to public confi 
sys: 

recomending his he may, « ' 

of vanity, defy criticism. He la / for lhe rc ' 

lief of those who have small means, against the extortions and burthens of the 
professional tailor, and he feels safe in saying that his plan is now complete, 

3H32S5S£SS33B£5aBHSHEEB 



One great merit of this work is that it is entirely five from technichal lan- 
guage or abstruse expressions. Its style and its general arrangement eminently 
adapt it to the capacity of the common raind, and the object to be attained by it 
addresses itself with peculiar force to every mother who desires to see her daugh- 
ters and sons neatly and elegantly attired upon a small amount of capital. 

This work has been entered according to an act of Congress and the copy- 
right secured to the author, who will see that his rights are not violated. 




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THE 



GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 






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THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



uestions and Jlnswers to Plate I, JFi». /, with 

JExplanations. 



Q. What do you first do' 

A. I draw my lines. 

Q. Which is your upper line? 

A. The one to my right. 

Q. Which is your outer line? 

A. The one next to me. 

Q. What do you come down on 
your outer line? 

A. 14 inches. 

Q. What do you get by that? 

A. The length of the waist. 

Q. How do you carry in the length 
of the waist? 

A. By laying the square parallel 
with the^ outer line, ranging with 
them. 

Q. What do you go in on the waist 

A. 2 inches. 

Q. What from that 2 inches? 

A. 2 inches more. 

Q. What do you get by that? 

A. The width of the back, accord- 
ing to the old style.! 

Q. Present style? 

A. Adding £ inch. 

Q. How do you get the middle of 
the back seam? 

A. By laying the square in the cor- 
ner of the lines, ranging with the 2 
inches. 

Q. What do you come down on 
the back seam? 

A. One i. 

Q. How do you carry in the I? 

A. By laying the square parallel 
with the back seam, ranging with 
the I. 

Q. Wh«-t do you t'' 1 in on the I? 

A. One K, adding of a C. 

W\ i1 eiqj'ou come in on your 
upper line? 

A 2 « ches. 

Q. Where do you mark to to 
get your shoulder seam? 

A. From D to 2 inches. 



Q. How do you shape your side 
seam' 

A. By a sweep. 

Q. What do you take for a sweep? 

A. The length of the waist. 

Q. Where do you sweep from and 
to? 

A. From the end of the scale to 2 
inches. 

Q. What do you come up on your 
sideseam? 

A. 4 inches. 

Q. How do you shape your addi- 
tional spiing? 

A. By a sweep. 

Q. What do you take for a sweep? 

A. 12 inches. 

Q. Where do you sweep from and 
to? 

A. 4 inches to h inch. 

Q. Folds how do you gel them? 

A. By judgment. 

Q. What do you go dowu to get 
the length of the skirt? 

A. 24 inches. 

Q. How do you shape your skirt 
at bottom? 

A. By a sweep, taking the entire 
length lor a sweep, and placing your 
right hand at the top, your left the 
entire length, sweeping toward you. 

[The 4 inches observed on theside 
seam of plate 1, figure 1, and the \ 
inch immediately under it at the en- 
tire length of the waist, is in accord- 
ance with the present fashion of waist- 
ed coats, and if the waist of the coat 
shall become shorter, the -i inch ad- 
ditional width must he taken off and 
the back only be 2 inches wide, as 
represented by two figures of 2 on 
figure 1. You will reraembe] that 
the length of the skirt will be con- 
trolled by taste and fashion; and, al- 
so the lengih cf the waist. 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE 



Questions and Jlnswers to Plate 1. Fig. II, with 

Explanations. 



Q What do you first do? 

A I draw my lines, 

Q Which is your upper line? 

A The one to my right. 

Q Which is your outer line? 

A The one next to me. 

Q What do you come down on 
your outer line? 

A 1 inch. 

Q How far from that inch? 

A one H. 

Q, How do you carry in the H? 

A By laying the square parallel 
"with the outer line, ranging with the 
H. 

Q What do you go in on the H 
line? 

A One'half the thickness around 
the arm at the body. 

Q. How do you shape the sleeve at 
top? 

A By a sweep, 



Q. What do you sweep from and 
to? 

A From 1 inch to the upper line, 
from the upper line to one half the 
thickness around the arm at the body 

Q, How do you get the width at 
the elbow? 

A One half the thickness of the el- 
bow, adding one inch. 

Q. How do you get the width of 
the hand? 

A. h thickness ofjihe hand adding 
an inch. 

Q Where do you mark from and 
to get the inside seam? 

A From half the thickness around 
the arm at the body to half the thick- 
ness of the elbow, from half thickness 
of the elbow to half the thickness of 
the hand. 



BWiMMMapsggeB&flgegarTiriTg^^^^ ss 



THE GARMENT CUTTER. AND LADIES GUIDE. 




\ucstions and Answers to Plate II., it 
common Dress (Joat. 



g 



Q, What do you first do? 

A I draw my line?. 

Q, Which is your upper line? 

A The one to my right. 

Q Which is your outer line? 

A The one next to me. 

Q, What do you come in on your 
upper line? 

A One L, 

Q, VV hat do you come down on 
your outer line? 

A One H. 



Q What from that H? 

A One J. 

Q, What from that.]? 

A One E. 

Q How do you carry in your H, 
J, and E? 

A Bv laying the parallel with the 
outer line, ranging with them. 

What do you come in on your 
H !in^ 

A 

Q What on vour J line? 



UmttBBBSBBi 

THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



» 3 



A. C 

Q What from thai C? 

A One K. 

Q What from that K? 

A One L. 

Q How do you carry up the L? 

A By laying the square parallel 
with the upper line, ranging with the 
L. 

Q, What do you come down on the 
h? 

A One I. 

Q Where do yon mark from and 
to to get your shoulder seam? 

A From E lo L. 

Q What do you come in on your 
shoulder seam '. 

A OneH. 

Q Where do you mark from and 
lo to get the neck of the coat? 

A From H to I. 

Q, Where do von mark from and 
to tu get th° arm-hole ? 

A From E In K, to the E i i n-* ; 
from E line to C. 

Q. How do you throw your coat 
in at t!ie waist? 

A. F. 

Q. What shaped character will 
that fit? 

A. A man that measures near the 
same at ihe waist that he does round 
the breast. 

Q. What is considered near 
same. 

A. i inch to f. 

Q. Suppose it was 2 inche?, 

A. At the G. 

Q. 4 inches. 

A. At G and 
way.. 

Q. 6 inches* 

A. At H. 

Q. 7 inches. 

A. At H and i, half way. 

Q. 8 inches. 

A. At I. 

Q, 9 inches. 

A. At J. 

Q. How do you shape your side 
searn. 

A. By the back. 

Q, Do you go any lower down on 
the forepart than the hack? 

A I do — enough for a seam — be- 
cause there is a seam taken on the 
forepart and none on the back. 



d H, precisely half 



Q How do you carry out the point 
seam? 

A By laying the square parallel 
with the outer line, ranging with 
pointseam. 

Q What do you go up there? 

A One D. 

Q, How do you carry in fhe D? 

A By laying the square parallel 
with the outer line, ranging with thu 
D. 

Q What do vou come in on the D? 

A One M. 

Q Where do you sweep from and 
to? 

A Poii It ' ;: ,i ' » 

Q How do you gel the width] of 
the lower part of the fore cart? 

A Half waist thickness. 

Q How is it applied? 

A l oy laying the back to the side 
seam, applying the m - I > the 

middle of the back seam, taking care 
to leave oil enough for a seam. 

Q What do you add to that meas- 
ure in case you cut the coat to but- 
ton straight up in front, the lapellea 
it? 

A Two inches. 

Q How do you carry up the waist 
o! thickness? 

A By laying the square parallel 
with the D line, .ranging with the 

Wai? t of ! . 

Q, Mow do you get the length' of 
the coat in front? 

4 By measure taken from the 
middle uf im around be- 

fore to get the length of t the coal. 

Q, What do you leave oil that 
measure? 

A Oae inch in dress coat. 

Q How do you shapa the neck of 
the coat? 

A By the collar pattern. 

Q How is it laid there? 

A The brake lo one-half (he thick- 
ness of the cuscomer's neck, the 
square upon the brake to tell how 
far the coat should roll. 

Q How do you shape the top part 
of the coat in front? 

A By the lapel!e[paUern, 

Q, Which side? 

A The outside. 

Q Suppose the outside should be 



s^tt^^ r's a s g aBaigssa ^ 



I© 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



curving? instead of rounding? 

A The inside, the length of the la- 
pelies, is got by the length of the fore 
pari, the dubbs in the measure; the 
width of the top part of the skirt is 
got by the width of the lower part 
of the fore part, adding for fullness 
as fashion may require. 

Q What do you go ('own to get 
the necessary spring for the skirt? 

A One D. 

Q. How do you carry in the D? 

A By laying the square parallel 
with the outer line, ranging with the 

D. 

Q What do you come in on the D 

A Half an inch. 

Q What do you come down on 
your outer line? 

A One L. 

Q How do you shape your round- 
ing folds? 

A By a sweep. 

Q What do you take fcr a sweep? 

A Eighteen inches. 



Q Where do you sweep from and 
to? 

A From L to f inch. 

Q Folds, how do you get them? 

A By judgment; folds of all sized 
persons are the same. 

Q How do you get the length of 
the skirt' 

A 8y the length of the back skirt. 

Q Where do you mark from and 
to to get the top mark of the skirt? 

A from the edge of the folds to 
the lower corner of the fore part. 

Q Dubbs, how do you get them? 

A By judgment. 

Q What do you come across to get 
the width of the skirt at top? 

A One M, adding of a G. 

Q At bottom, what do you come 
across? 

A One K, adding of an E. 

Q Where do you mark from and 
to to get the forepart of the skirt? 

A From E to G. 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE 



Questions and Jlns. to Plate III., with Explanation, 




Q, What do you first do? 

A I draw my lines. 

Q, 'Which is } our upper line? 

A The'one to my right* 

Q Which is your outer line? 

A The one next to me. 

Q, What do you come down on 
your outer line? 

A Fourteen inches. 

Q Whatdojou get by that? 

A The length of the waist. 

Q How do you carry in the length 
&f the waist? 

A By laying the square parallel 
with the outer line, ranging with the 



ength of the waist, 

Q What do you go in on the 
length of the waist 7 

A Two inches. 

Q, What from that? 

A Three inches, or whatever fash- 
ion may be, or I, in my judgment think 
it should be. 

Q How do you get the middle of 
the back seam? 

A By laying the corner of the 
square in \he corner of the lines, 
ranging with finches, 

Q What do you come down on the 
back seam? 

A One L, marking at the I. 

Q, How do you carry in the Land 

^ i, , 

A By laying the square parallel 

with the outer line, ranging with 

them, < 

Q What do vou go in on the 1 r 

A One K, adding of a C. 

Q What do you go in on the L? 

A One M. 

Q What do you go in on vour up- 
per line? 

A Two inches. 

Q Where do you mark from and 
to to get your shoulder seam? 

A From D to 2 inches. 

Q The aim hole? 

A From D to C and C to M. 

Q, How do you shape your side 
seam? 

A Bv a sweep. 
g*Q What do you take for a sweep? 
"" A The length o< the vrai«t. 

Q Wnere do you sweep from fand 

to 1 

A M to 3 inches. 

Q Folds, how do yo« get them? 

A B) judgment; folds o. all sized 
persons are the same. 

Q What do you go down to get 
the length of the skirt? 

A Twenty-four inches. 

Q How do you shape the skirt at 
bottom? 

A By a sweep. 

Q What do you take for a sweep? 

A The entire length. 

Q How do you sweep, it? 

A By placing my right hand at the 
top, my left hand holding the chalk 
at the entire length, sweeping to- 
wards me. 



| igf THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 




Questions and Jlns. to Plate IV., xtith Explanation, 



Q, What do vou first do? 

A I draw my fines. 

Q Which is your upper line? 

A The one to my right. 

Q Which is your outer line? 

A The one from me. 

Q How far do you come in on your 
upper Sine? 

A One L. 

Q What do vou ccme down on 
pour outer line? 

A One H. 

Q What from that H? 

A One J. 



Q What from that J? 

A One E. 

Q How do von carrv in vour H, 
J, and E? 

A By laving a square parallel with 
the outer line, ranging with them. 

What do you come in on your 
H Hue? 

A One E. 

Q What on your J line? 
- A One C. 

Q, What do you come :n liom that 
C? 

A One K. 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



13 



A What from that K? 

A One L. 

How do you carry up the L? 

By laying a square parallel wifh 
the upper 1 i n *-• , ranging with (he L. 

What do you come down on the L ? 

One I. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to set the shoulder seam? 

From E to L. 

What do vou come in on your 
shoulder seam.'' 

One H. 

Where do you rrnrk from and to 
to get the neck ol tie coat? 

From H (o I. 

What do you come in on your E 
V\r.e? 

One J. 

Where do vou mark from and to 
to get the arm hole? 

E to K, from K to f. 

Kow do vou get the arm hole the 
proper size? 

By measure taken around the arm 
at the body. 

How do you throw the coat in at 
the waist 9 

At the F. 

What shaped man will that fit? 

One that, measure^ near the same 
in the waist and breast. 

What is near the same? 

Half an inch t<> three quarters, 

Sup) ose he was two inches? 

At the G. 

Four inches? 

At G and H, halfway. 

Six inches? 

At the H. 

►Seven inches? 

At Hand i, halfway. 

Eisiltt inches? 

At I. 



N 



me inches 



At the J. 

In shaping your side seams how do 
you shape them? 

By the side seam of the baek. 

How do you get the width of the 
forepart ? 

One half the waist thickness. 

How is it applied ? 

By laving the hack to the side seam 
applying the measure to the mid- 
dle ol the back seam, taking care to 
leave off enough for a seam. 

What do you add to (hat measura 
in case you cut the coat to button 
straight np in front, or (he lapelles to 
it? 

2 in, as shown on plate 4. 

How do vou get the length of the 
coat in front ? 

Bv measure taken from (h ■ mid- 
dle of (he collar seam around before, 
to get the length of the coat. 

How do you shape the neck oi the 
coat? 

Bv the collar patten. 

How is it laid theie? 

The brake to one half the thick- 
ness of the neck, the square upon the 
brake to tell how far the coat should 
loii. 

How do you shape the front part 
of the coat at top? 

By 'he lapelle pattern, the outside 
of course. 

How do you get the length of the 
skirt? 

Bv the iength ol (he bac.tyskirf. 

How do shape the skirt at bottom 

By a sweep. 

How do you sweep it? 

By placing my right hand at (he 
L at top, my left hand with the chalk 
in it sweeping towards me. 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 




ucstions and Jlns. to Plate F., with Explanation. 



What do you first do? 
1 draw my lines. 
Which i? your lower line : ? 
The one to my left. 
Winch is your outer line? 
The one next (o me. 
How do you get the length of the 
vest ? 

By a sweep. 

What do you take for a sweep? 

The entire length leaving ofFan E i 

Why do you leave oft that E? 



Bee ause the bark is an E wide, 
makes the vesl an E longer. 

Whai do you come out on the 
sweep? 

One I. 

Where do you lei the top mark 
cross the sweep? 

At the I. 

What do yon come out on the top 
mark? 

One M, marking at the I. 



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THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



£& 



What do you come up from bot- 
tom? 

One D. 

How do you carry in the D? 

By laying the square parallel with 
the lapelle line, ranging with the D. 

What do you come in on the D? 

One M, marking at the I. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to get your inside seam? 

From M to M. 

ffhat do you come down on your 
inside seam. 

One E. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to eet your shoulder seam? 

From E to I. 

What do you draw to I and mark 

at? 

Draw the 1 to the I and mark at 
the E and the end of the scale. 

What do you come down on your 
lapelle line? 

One I. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to^et the neck of the vest? 

From E to I. 

What do you go down to get the 
depth ot arm hole? 

One M from the E on the middle 
of the shoulder seam. 

What do you go in to get the front 
part of the arm hole? 

One K from the lapelle line. 

Where do you mark lrom and to to 
get your arm hole? 

From the end of the scale to the ft 
and from the i£ to the M. 



Where do you mark from and to to 
shape the lower part of the vest? 

From t\ie fiont cornel of the vest 
through the I above the D fuse to the 
lower p^rt of the inside .seam. 

How do )6u get the width of the 
back? 

One half the waist thickness, add- 
ing two inches. 

How do you carry up the width of 
thickness? 

By laying the square parallel with 

the width, at the surne time ranging 

with thelowerpart of the inrtd.^seam. 

How do } ou get the length of back 

By the length of the forepart. 

Where do you measure from and 

to to get the length? 

From the back part of the neck to 

to the lower part of the inside seam, 

How do you carry in the length? 

By laying the square parallel with 

the width of at the same time ranging 

with the length* 

What do you go in on the length? 
One K, marking at the E. 
How do you carry down the K? 
By laying the square parallel with 
the length, at the same time ranging 
with the K. 

What do you come down upon 
the K? 
One G. 

Where do you ma:k from and to 
to get your shoulder seam? 
From E to G. 

Where to get your arm-holt? 
From G to M. 



LESSONS TO BE OBSERVED BY THE STUDENT ON VESTS. 

You will remember that in cutting a Vest there are various fashions; but the i 
number of measures are only taken, there being only 4 measures, begin 
bone spoken of in explanation to Plate VI; around before to get the lengt 
Vest first; the next around the breast; the next around the waist; the next arou 
the neck, including 4, as before stated. In cutting double breasted vests y< 
the neck of the vest by the collar pattern, as you do the coat. In vests 
varied that there cannot be any unexceptionable rule giveD, whereby you 
governed in all cases, without strict observation and practice. 



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| I<S THE GARMENT, CUTTER, AND LADIES GUIDE. 




Questions and Jlnswers to Plate VI. 



What do you first do? 

I draw my lines 

Which is your upper Ijne? 

The. one to my light. 

Which is your outer line? 

The one next to me. 

Fold, how do you got them? 

By judgment ; folds of ;ill sized 
persons are the same- 
How do you shape the skirt at top? 

By the lower part of the forepart. 

How is ii laid there? 

Bottom upwards. 

Flow far do yuu suffer the lower 
part of the side seam to come above 



the top line? 

One H. 

How do you get the length of the 
skirt? 

By the length of the bnek skirt. 

Flow do you shape your skirt at 
bottom? 

By a sweep. 

What do you take for a sweep? 

The entire length of the skirt. 
How do you sweep it? 

By placii Li my right hand at the 
top, my left hand with the chalk in 
it, at the entire length, sweeping to- 
wards me. 



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THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUlDl 



17 



is and Sins, to F 



o. 5, with 



Ex 



i nation 



I^W<: :V ^. 





ES.*u "-*■ .f ;t.,,t ,a^,i.itefe^,,i'.Aaiirtj 

Q. What do you first do? 

A. f draw my lines. 

O. Which is your upper line? 

A. The one to my right. 

Q. Which is your outer line? 

A. The one from me. 

Q. What do you come in your up- 
per line? 

A. One L. 

Q. What do vou come down on 
vour outer lints'? 

A. One H. 

Q. What from that H? 

A. O. e J. 

Q. What from that J? 

A. One E. 

Q. How do yon carry in your H, 
J and E? 

A. By laying the square paiallel 
with the outer line ranging with them 

Q Wl.at do you go in on the H? 

A . One E. 

Q. What on the J? 

A. One (J. 

Q What for a stooped shoulder- 
ed character. 

A. One I). 

Q. Suppose he was very much 
stooped? 



A. At the E. a? \ou see the three 
ietrers shew <»n the J lane: 

Q. What from that C, D, or E? 

A. One K. 

Q. What from that K 7 

A. One L, 

Q. How do you carry up the \J 

A. By Uyhvg ihe square parallel 
with the upper line ranging with the 
L. 

Q. What do you come down on 
Ihe L. 

A. OntJ i. 

(ft. \\ 1;h' • -'.J you mark from and 
t<> it) g> :< \ <>•: r >Ut mid ei' seam.' 

A. I' run i E to L. 

Q. What do you come in on your 
shoulder seam? 

A. One Hi 

Q. Wi»ere do you mar B from ;ind 
to Co !"M il'it tun k in the e.uat/ 

A. From 11 iu 1. 

Q. What do vou come in on vour 
E line? 

A. One [. 

Q. Where do you mark from and 
to to get your arm-hole. 

A. From E to K, from K. to L. 

Q. Hbw do you gel your arm- 
hoi.-- the right -size/ 

A. Measure taken around the arm 
at the iwuiv. 

llow do you throw in your coal 
at the waist. 7 
One F. 

What shaped character will that 

fir? 

A man that measures the same 
around the waist that he does around 
the l)rea?t. 

What is considered near the fame 

Half inch to three quarters. 

Suppose he was two inches? 

At theG. 

Suppose he was four inches? 

B'tween G and H half way. 

Suppose he was six inches? 

At the H. 

Suppose he was seven inches. 

H and I halt way. 

Suppose he wns eight inches? 

At the L- 

How do you shape your side seam 

3y the back. 



IS 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



Do you go any lower down on the 
forepart than the hack? 

I do; enough for a seam. 

Why so? 

Because there ; s a seam taken on 
the forepart and none on the hack. 

How do you carry out the point 
seam? 

By laying the square parallel with 
the outer line ranging- with the point 
seam. 

What do you go up there? 

OneD. 

How do you carry in the D? 

By laying the square parallel with 
the outer line ranging with the D. 

What do you come in on the D. ? 

One M from the side seam. 

Where do you murk from and to 
to pet the lower part of the lorepart 

From F to M. 

How do you shape your side seam? 

By the back. 

How do you get the width of the 
lower part of the forepart? 

O <e half of the waist thickness. 

How is waist thickness applied? 

B) laving the hark to the side 
seam applviug the measure to the 
middle of the hack seam, leiving off 
enough for a se;»m in the b ick, and 
if vou should cut the seam under 
the arm, as represented b\ the mirk 
from 1 in '.he arm-hole to j\l in the 
lo.ver part of the forepart, you add 
enough for two more seams and 
your turning. 

What do you a 'd to waist thick- 
ness in case you cut lapelles to your 
coat? 

Two inch**. 



How do you carry up waist thick- 
ness? 

By laying the square parallel with 
the D line ranging with the thickness 

How do you get the length of 
your coat in front. 

By measure taken from the mid- 
dle of the collar seam around down 
before as far as the gentleman may 
wish coat to come down in front. 

How do you shape the neck of 
your coal? 

By a sweep? 

Wkat do you take for a sweep? 

The length of the shoulder. 

Where do yon sweep from and to? 

From L to I: if you wish your 
coat to roll more, let your sweep 
strike below the 1; if you wish it 
to roll but little, let it strike above 
the I. 

Hew do you shape the front part 
of your coat at top' ? 

By the outside of the lapelle pat- 
tern. 

You will see from the plate, the 
fifth seam under the arm, dotted on 
each side, that is to be hollowed out 
by the dotttd hue, and in setting 
on your buttons \ou will take Ihe 
L at the top .if the mat to the lower 
pa«"t of the foiepart, sweeping from 
H 1 '» 2 inches added, us repres' tiled 
bv 'he crossed do's <>n the foiepart. 
The hark of this coat is cut like the 
back of the common sack coat, but 
sometimes the lapelles are sewed to 
it, and in that case you do not add 
the 2 inches, and the skirt is cut 
like the skirt of tha frock coat, as 
will be shown by figure 6. 



rrmvw 



I VI ■ H'JUIMiWJ I uiJtli 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



19 



uestions and Jlns. to Fig. 6, with directions hoiv 
to cut the skirt of the half Sack Coat. 

(or a turn in on the front part of the 
skirt, and then youi folds. 

How do you shape your skirt at 
tcp? 

By the lower part of the fore par*. 

How is it laid then? 

Bottom upwards. 

How far do von suffer the lower 
part of the side seam come above ihe 
top line? 

One E, G or H, according t© 
fashion; if the wai?t is cut short you 
must come oneG: ifloog, oneH: aid 
the fashion is at present tolerable 
short; and on the back part of the 
skirt you have folds also — thcie is 
generally about one inch left (or folds 
the fullness of \our skirt is got by 
fa-hion: at top, if the skirt is very 
full you must add for fulness. 

How do you gel the length of 
your skirt ? 

By the length of the hack skirt. 

How do you shape your skirt at 
bottom? 

By a sweep. 

How do you sweep it? 

By placing my right hand at the 
top, mv left hand with the chalk in it, 
making my left hand go twice as 
fast as my right hand, because it has 
twice as far to go, and both have to 
r/et there at the «ame time. 




What do you first do? 

I draw my lines, 

Whk:h is your upper line? 

The one to my right. 

Which is your outer line? 

The one next to me. 

Folds, how do you get them. 

By judgment; leave off enough 



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20 



WB — — — — B— ■ W 



THK GAKMENT -JUT:":": AND LADIES C 



Back part of a Ladies Dress-— present Fashion 




What do you first do. 

1 draw my lines. 

Winch is your upper lint? 

The one to my right. 

Which is yonruutpi line 7 

The one next <o me. 

What do \ou come c}oAV.p on i 
outer line? 

One M marking at th<; K. 

How d<> yon carry in the M and 

Bv laying the square parallel « 
the oiner line, ranging with the 
und K. 



he 



k 

ifh- 

M 



What do you go in on the K? 

OueM. 

What do you go in on the M? 

One M. 

What do you go down on the 
outer line? 

Tie length of the waist. 

What dn yoij tr in on (he length 
of l he waist? 

One-fourth of the waist thickness, 
or whatever you may wish the width 
ol your back to he — what is taken 
off the back is added to the forepart, 
and visa verse. 

What do you come in on the upper 
line! 

Two inches. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to get the shoulder seam? 

From E to two inches. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to get the arm-holt ? 

From E to JM, and from M to M. 

How do yon shape your side seam? 

By a sweep, or straight by the 
square from Mto whatever you may 
wish the width of {he back of your 
dress, taking the length ol the waist, 
if you shape vour side seam by a 
sweep, for the length of your sweep: 
after you have gone down to thf 
ie gth ol your waist, if you mav 
wish a peak on the buck, go down "2 
vi 3 inches for the length of the peak, 
men mark from the waist thickness 
to the entire length of the peak, and 
chape as shown by dotted line at the 
it iigth of the waist. 



08y , Stub'nt* will remejfibar that in drawing theii line* they will fen vie ofFenougb 
foi a split rase.Tnd for hooks and eyes if you wish yo ir dress l<< upon behind, if not, 
leave oft' nothing; and if you shouid not wish a peak, of course leave it of)', and carry 
y >ui waist square across. Owing to ladies wearing t ijrir dresses so verv tight, you 
should leave half of ah inch for seams, and mure if the lining is of dome-tic; if drill- 
ing, halfol an inch will do. The dotted line on the side seam show how \ ou s-iiape 
.. your ..iie »eanl by a sw*ep, taking the length of ;ht> weist tor a sweep. 



MHM.iMr CkXZ 



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«. . n 1 1 . ! ■ i ^j. 1 , Lu-.'u.'ti. -rs--*L* ': ' ,-' 

Tin; Garment cutter and ladies guide 



»i 



Questions and *Ins. to Fin. 8 , with Explanation, 



Being the forepart of a I/idie? Dres>.~ 
and change according to the Folio 

..if.'-rvi.-' '•' 




What do yc,u first do? 

I draw my line?. 

Which is your upp^r line? 

Trie 'Uie next li» oh-? 

Wliat do you come down on your 
outer ii,H- 7 

One M adding of a D, 

How do you cany in 1 he M and D. 

By laying the square parallel 
with the outer line, ranging with 
them. 

Wha f do vou «o in on theM? 

O'leJVT adding of ah A. 

What do you come down on your 
outer line to get the open or hosom 
of vour dress? 

You will observe on plate figure 
8. on vour outer line, the letters G 
H and K. and you will also observe 
nn Eon your upper line, and I and 
K on your shoulder, and dotted lines 
running from the shoulder to the let- 
ters on the fore part and bosom of 
the dress, marked G H and K. U 
vou wi e h your dress cut high in the 
neck, dotted line from F to G; spring 
fashion; from I to H, summer fashion; 



-Present Ka*i ion, — with directions to vnry 
wing Fashions: — lull directions, &.c. 

, from K t«> K, cot for open bosom 
dresses, or rut your lining or faring 
to ran d orh letter lo letter with either 
ol the doited lines, and gainer plete 
nnd finish thf outside as you may 
wish or lashioii ma> require. 

What do yon go in on \ our upper 
line? 

O.ie M, adding of an F. 

How do you carry down the V? 

13 v laying (he square parallel with 
the upper line ranging with the F. 

What i\o \ ou go down on the F? 

One 6, 

Where do you mark from and to 
to urot vour shoulder seam/ 

From F to G. 

WheredoYon mark from anil to 
to get vour arm hole? 

From G to K, from E to M . 

How do you shape your sideoodjr 
of your dress/ 

By the sidebody of the back. 

How do von gel the length of 
your sidebody? 

By length of the sidebody oi the 

back. 

How do you carry the length 
acnK-s/ 

By laying the square parallel with 
th" F line, ratigmg with the length 
o( the sidebodv. 

What do you come across t« get 
(he wsd'h of li. e lower part ol tne 
fore par'? 

One fourth of the waist thickness, 
adding lor seams. 

/Fhal do you go down to get the 
length of the peak? 

Four to five inches, or whatever 
you may wish it. 

JPhere do you mark liom and to 
to get (he lower part of the forepart? 

From one fourth the waist thick- 
ness to the entire length of the peak. 

What do you come across to get 
the point of the two side seams? 

One K. marking at the E, from 
the sidebody. 

How do you shape the back part 
of the sidebody ? 

By a sweep. 



r-*smrri. ggg^Tg'iyrT'xrTy^'Tar^ 



TIF, GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



Whai do \ou lake fur a sweep? 

The width ot the lower part of the 
Soie part. 

Where do you sweep from and to? 

From the lower part of the side 
body to the first seam, as shown by 
dotted line; '.he four straight lines 
running from K and E shows that 
there is two seams to be sewed, and 
you sew in the two lines, forming one 
seam in the two others forming the 
second seam, and you must leave off 
enough, exclusive of seam 8 , to he ot 
sufficie.it width for the lower part of 
th^ forepart of the dress. 

If the fashion of ladies' dre«ses 
should vary, which we reasonably 
look lor and you should not want 
any peak, come square across from 
the lowei point of ihe sidebody, and 
should the fashion become shorter in 
the length of the waist, which is very 
possible, you will then have to take 
up less at the waist in seams, and 
should the shoulder become shorter 



from fashion and requiie to be taken 
offal the back pari of the shoulder, 
you will readily perceive how it is 
done, and if the shoulder of back is 
shortened the forepart alsoshould be 
shortened to agree, that you will have 
to do by judgment and the scale. 

The siuJeot will find no difliculty 
in cutting of any of the fashions of 
gentlemen's or ladies 1 dressipg by 
paying close attention to the rule 
and measures, and take time, do not 
be too hastily in anything. 

in taking ladies measure you be- 
gin at^ flie top i f th'.' ditss , or as high 
;is "hv wishes it, and go on down to 
yet the length of the want ; — that is 
I: then around Ihebreist; 2. then 
around the waist, — that is 3: 
all that is required. All that is 
further required of the ladie- is, to 
be particular and observe the fash- 
ions, and you can follow i» through 
all its changes. Further instructions 
will be given in the closing lecture. 



Directions, Quest, fy Jlns. to Fig. 8., on Pantaloons 




] draw my lines. 

\\ inch is your upper line. 



The one to my right. 

Which is your outer line, 

The one next to me. 

What do you come down on your 
outer line. 

One-half of the knee length. 

What from that, 

Tiv en'jre length of the papfa- 
h ous — fnm the top of the hip to the 
er. the length. 

How dd you carry in one-Kali the 
knee length, and ihe knee length and 
the entire length. 

l)y lay iog the square parallel with 
the outer line— ranging with them. 

What do you ^o up fiom the body 
of the pantaloons to get the ot)ej> of 
the pa:i^. 

OneU ft^m'^ne O. 

flow do i.arry it in? 

By laying the square parallel with 
t' e outer line, ranging with II. 

What d > you go in on the O line? 

One-half Ihe waist ihickness. leav- 
ing of two inches. 

What do you go in on the P line? 

One-half of the knee thickness. 

What do you go in on (he R line . ? 



.■gsgaeratjErsa 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



S3 



One-half of the ankle thickness. 

TFhat do you go in on the waist? 

One-fourOi the waist thickness, 
adding ,-i.) jijHi for seams. 

How do you carry down the waist 
thick ivs.-? 

By laying (he square parallel wilh 
(he upper line, ranging with the 
waist. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to get your inside seam? 

From L (o X, from X to H and 
the dotted line, as shown on the fore- 
part at you; Holl«»w out the point to 
prevent them from drawing up when 
riding; on the the P and X line you 
goon ihe buck part of the points 
three inches farther than on the fore 
part and at thm bottom, shown by R. 
H and V, all in a line you come 
across. Twist the width of the fore 
part for gather pantaloon and mark a 
straight line from L to V" and hollow 
out, as shown by dotted line at V, 
then di;iw a straight liVie from L to 
VV for the back nart of the pants at 
the waist going up three or four 
inches for the back part of the pants 
behind; you will observe ol the top 
of the pants a small slanted line, vou 
shape in that way for pants to wear 
without suspenders and cut by the 
lice; then mar!:- from that line where 



i; touches the upper line to the 3 
or \ inches un the back part of the 
pant's. 

N. B. If you should wi h to cut 
pants to wear wiih su-spenders, vo*; 
measure from the top of the pants ep 
as high as the customer wishes hi- 
pants to come; in that case you should 
not slant vour pants at the top, but 
'l«t them come straight up with the 
selvage of the cloth, and if he should 
wish his pants cut according to old 
style,\ on give them equal width at 
the bottom and kne<-. There are on- 
ly five measures taken for pants, be- 
ginning at the top of the hip hone aud 
go on down to the knee and th^nco 
on down to the foot, that being two 
measures, set them down, the knee 
first and loot next; thence around the 
waist, then around the knee, then 
around the ankle; tho=e measures 
should beset down with dots between 
them to distinguish them, and be 
very particular in applying your 
measures and in taking them, when 
you come up an H from the O to get 
the open of the pant*, you use the 
scale of the waist measure; vou 
should shape the lore part of the 
gaither pantaloons rounding and any 
other additional shape that fashi/u 
may rpqnire. 




i iM TJflE QiA&MKN'T CWmO-ii AND r.ADUJS (jWJII^E. 



..~.«^rr»^«K«<ri««-a«^a»pl»?MBlwgCT^1e«, < yyf| .■■««* 



.mjsiions and Ans. on 
Being* the Ladies 1 




What do yon first do? 

I draw my lines 

Which is your upper line 7 

The one to my right. 

Which is your outer line? 

The one next to me. 

What do you come down on your 
outer line ? 

OneK. 

How do you carry in the K? 

By laying the square- parallel with 
the outer line ranging with the K. 

What do you go in on the K? 

One M. 

What do you go in on your up- 
per line? 

Two inches. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to get your shoulder seam? 

From E to 2 inches. 

The arm-hole of the back frcm E 
to M. 

That ineludes all of the rapperof 
the ladies' dres*; you may make 
your dres-* to come lower down the 
K or higher up, as fashion ar your 
taste may dictate, or shorter on the 



Fig. 10„ with Explanation, 
oose Wrapper Dress. 

shoulder seam, as J.ishion also may 
require; if you should wish your 
dress gathered in the back, which 
all loose wrappers are, you should 
lay your gathers before you lay oiT 
your dress, as you <unnot get your 
dress the proper size without; the 
double lines show that you must 
leave off for turnings or split case, 
as you may wish. 

On the fore part of the loose 
wrapper dress what do you first do? 

I draw my Ikies. 

Which is your upper line? 

The one to my right. 

Which is your outer line? 
The one next to me. 

^Fhat do you come down on your 
outer line? 

One G, if you wish your dress to 
come high in the neck, ifyou wish 
it low you m a }' come one H, I, J. 
or K, according to fashion or your 
taste. 

/fnat do you come down on your 
outer line? 

One M, adding of a D. 

How do you carry in the M and 
D» 

By laying the square parallel 
with ttic outer line, ranging with 
them. 

What do you go in on the M? 

One M, adding cf and A. 

IVUai do you go in on your upper 
line? 

One E, if you wish your dress high 
in the neck, tffashion should reduire 
it low on the neck, you get the shoul- 
der seam, go down to the shoulder- 
seam, till you get it as short as you 
may wish. 

What do you go in on your UDper 
line? 
• One M, adding of an F. 

How von carry down the F? 

By laying the square parallel with 
the upper line, ranging with the F. 

What do you go down on the F? 

One G. 

Where do you mark from and to 
to your shoulder seam? 



THE GARMENT CUTTER AND LADIES GUIDE. 



25 



From E to G and just as low down 
as you may wish the gathered part 
of your bo-om; to corns on the fore- 
part, you come down on your outer 
line, say I, J, or K, and carry it 
straight across by laying the square 
parallel with the outer line, ranging 
with the I, J, or K, and go across one 
L and mark from the G to the 1. in a 
rounding or curving direction tor the 
arm-hole, and bHore you begin to lav 
off your dre-s. you must gether up 
as much fullness as ^vou wish your 
dress to have, as you cannot guess 

Rules to be observed, 

The sij'pli ation of neat measure 
taken upon the customer is one of the 
first and highest considei ation, in cut- 
ting of a sood fit of a coat or vest, 
and therefore you cannot use too 
much c: re in taking of your measures 
and in the application of them, being 
ver> particular to observe the shape 
of the person you are cutting for; 
inquiring of the person at the same 
time what kind ol coat —or whether 
he wfints a loose coat or a tight fitting 
coat, in as much as it is extremely un- 
comfortable to some persons to be 
drawn up by a tight fitting coat, par- 
ticularly ageu men. 

When you begin to take measures 
upon the customer,you begin by la) T - 
ing the end of the tape measure up- 
o! the large bone at the joining of the 
neck and body, called by some the 
socket bone of the neck: thence on 
down to gel the length cf the waist, 
next get the length of the waist no the 
figure representing the length, ex- 
tending the tape to get the length of 
the skirt ; then down the entire 
length; that being two measures- 
set down separate, with a dot be. 
tween them; next measure the mid 
die of the hack seam to the elbow? 
holding ihe tape measure at the point 
of the elbow, causing the person to 
bend his arm, extending the measure 
to tli ■* band: that being four measures 
set down as before stated with dots 
between them; the measure is around 
tne arm at the body, five; the next 
around the elbow, six; the next around 
the hand, seven; the next middle col- 



at it. as you are aware you can ol 
make a guess and regular rule work 
You will remember that there are 
three measures taken for a ladies' 
dress, beginning at the top of the 
dress in the back to the length rf the 
waist; the next around the breast; 
the next around the waisr, that i« the 
3; whatever the lady may maasure 
around the breast in inches thai is 
the number of scale to select, as you 
will find the scale numbered at the 
bottom of ea< h scale. 



lar seam around down before to <ret 
the lengto of the coat in Ironr, eight* 
the next around the breast, nine; the 
next around the waist, ten; t'.e next 
around the neck, being eleven m-as- 
uies. You will inquire of the person 
all the time yau are measuring him 
about the coat or something, for fear 
yon may tal<M his n easure too large 
or too small, causing him to talk; and 
whatever the person mai measure 
around the breast in inches thai scale 
reprenimg the number of inches se- 
lect to cut the toat, or loim it ae- 
to the regular rule, your eleven solid 
measure to get the coat the right size. 
Fashion and its changes should be 
particularly observed, the most pro- 
minent changes is, 1st, in ihe collar 
and lapelles of the coat; 2nd, in the 
length of the waist and skirt; 3d, in 
the (illness f{ the skirt, it being 
sometimes fashionable to have very 
full skirts, ct other limes different. 
In sewing, you must sew a strong, 
straight seam; ami when you have 
done that, you next press it, and 
when y<>u. have sponged the seam, 
with your goose or iron, being hot, 
take a scrap and try the heat of 
your iron, and if your iron wiil no\ 
scorch in half a minute it will not 
scorch at all, and when you fipply 
the iron or goose Lpply it easily, 
the point being in the seam; and 
when you go the full length of tne 
iron do not shove it to ihe right or 
left, but let it set and bear all your 
wait on if, until it has killed the 
seam dead, then it will never rise 
or puff. 



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